The Best Of Watches And Wonders 2025
From Rolex’s first contemporary collection in greater than a decade to the sphere’s most refined wristwatch, timeless timepieces from the ideal look for display mask.
Behind the scenes at this 12 months’s Watches And Wonders Geneva—the finest commerce display mask for luxury timepieces—the clock used to be ticking loudly to
Nonetheless the uncertainty of a doable commerce battle didn’t diminish the enthusiasm for this 12 months’s novelties, which integrated the first contemporary collection from Rolex since 2012 (the Land-Dweller), a revival of Cartier’s Tank Á Guichets from 1928, and the debut from the sphere’s most refined wristwatch by Vacheron Constantin.
Listed below are a pair of of basically the most magnificent, modern, and buzzed-about contemporary watches that will stand the test of time.
Rolex
Rolex Land-Dweller
Two days earlier than Watches And Wonders started, the hunt for world used to be already buzzing about a brand contemporary unlock from Rolex that used to be spotted (accidentally?) in Roger Federer’s Instagram feed. The Land-Dweller is Rolex’s first contemporary collection since 2012’s Sky-Dweller—and also suits logically alongside the Sea-Dweller, which debuted in 1967—nevertheless has extra in fashioned with the Oysterquartz, an angular interpretation of the Crown’s signature Oyster. The classic Jubilee bracelet is now integrated with the case—flatter and thinner—and the dial has a honeycomb sample.
Nonetheless it’s what’s underneath the hood that where the staunch innovation happens. The Land-Dweller—which is on hand in 36mm and 40mm—is powered by Rolex’s a brand contemporary motion (Caliber 7135), which capabilities the contemporary Dynapulse escapement that will likely turn up in future units.
As if a brand contemporary collection weren’t satisfactory news, Rolex also presented a brand contemporary 1908 in yellow gold (with a gold bracelet) and plenty of alternative units with magnificent dials—including a Daytona with a turquoise lacquer dial and a GMT-Grasp II with a tiger iron dial.
VITALS
Case: Everose gold, stainless metal and white gold, platinum
Diameter: 36 mm and 40mm
Energy Reserve: 66 hours
Tag: $13,900 to $116,900
Cartier
Cartier Tank Á Guichets
For those that can also maintain an horological archive worship Cartier, it’s easy to return in time. This 12 months, the noted jewellery maison brought abet the Tank á Guichets—a queer portion of its Tank collection—which used to be first presented in 1928. The contemporary Guichets—which advance window or opening in French, as in a ticket window—feature a dial that appears to be like to be worship a caseback, other than for two apertures that display mask the hour (the utilization of a jump-hour mechanism) and minutes (also on a rotating dial). Thew contemporary units advance in yellow gold, rose gold and platinum and feature the hour where 12 o’clock ought to be and the minutes at 6 o’clock. Nonetheless the staunch standout is a platinum model (tiny to 200 objects) that displays the hour window at 11 o’clock (with the numbers modified into on their aspect) and the minutes (also tilted) at about 4 o’clock. Deem of it as a truly refined analog model of a digital look for.
VITALS
Case: Platinum
Dimension: 37.6 mm x 24.8 mm
Energy Reserve: 7 days
Tag: $61,000 (tiny to 200)
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
Whereas A. Lange & Söhne is revered for its costume watches, the Odysseus is nearer to a sport look for—especially now that it comes on a treasured metal bracelet (in Lange’s signature Honeygold) that suits the case. This model doesn’t maintain the roughly considerations of outdated Odysseus units, nevertheless it completely does maintain day and date windows that are controlled by two refined pushers on opposite facets of the crown. It’s also water resistant up to 120 meters. Nonetheless the major thing to know about this beauty is that it’s miles tiny to 100 objects.
VITALS
Case: 18-karat Honeygold
Diameter: 40.5 mm
Energy Reserve: 50 hours
Tag: Upon Query (Restricted to 100)
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
Patek Philippe is but every other label notorious for its big considerations—perpetual calendars and world timers that calculate and bring big quantities of recordsdata on a tiny dial—nevertheless this 12 months, it reminded collectors that few things are as no longer easy to carry out as pure simplicity. The Calatrava 6196P is an spectacular addition to the Calatrava collection—with a salmon dial, dusky markers and a tiny seconds sub dial at 6 o’clock. Other standouts for Patek this 12 months were a perpetual calendar in the Twenty-4 collection with a vivid green dial, a Calatrava Poke Time look for in white gold and a slimmer 4omm Cubitus.
VITALS
Case: Platinum
Width: 38 mm
Energy Reserve: 65 hours
Tag: $47,130
Bulgari
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely Tourbillon
For years, Bulgari and Piaget maintain traded records—with Richard Mille jumping in every now and then—for the sphere’s thinnest watches. This 12 months, it’s Bulgari’s turn—with the sphere’s thinnest tourbillon, clocking in at an absurdly svelte 1.85 mm. (Or about 1 mm thicker than a bank card.) Here is Bulgari’s 10th world file—and the 2nd time it has broken its outdated file in the tourbillon category. Can the highly skeletonized Octo Finissimo Extremely maybe
VITALS
Case: Titanium
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 1.85 mm
Energy Reserve: 50 hours
Tag: $678,000 (tiny to 20)
Substantial Seiko
Substantial Seiko SLGB003
Substantial Seiko’s Nature-inspired dials are constantly a spotlight of Watches And Wonders, nevertheless this 12 months the label centered on what ought to be the finest factor of watchmaking: accuracy. The contemporary Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2 in the Substantial Seiko SLGB003 has an main accuracy rating of ±20 seconds per 12 months. (Read that again, per 12 months.) To position that in perspective, Switzerland’s exacting COSC long-established for accuracy requires that mechanical watches are rated between -4/+6 seconds per day. Substantial Seiko isn’t calling it basically the most correct look for powered by a spring pressure—nevertheless it completely is.
VITALS
Case: Titanium
Diameter: 37 mm
Energy Reserve: 72 hours
Tag: $10,900
Chanel
Chanel J12 Bleu
Chanel’s cherished J12 collection bought an elegant makeover for its twenty fifth anniversary. Beforehand on hand in white or dusky ceramic, the J12 now is available in blue—the identical deep color as the Bleu de Chanel scent—in 9 tiny-model units. Some feature diamonds, others maintain sapphires, and there is even a flying tourbillon in a diamond-arena cage.
VITALS
Case: Ceramic
Diameter: 38 mm
Energy Reserve: ~70 hours
Tag: $24,350 (tiny model)
Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin Diver Air
Most oldsters that wear dive watches will by no advance strap on a tank and grasp the drop—which is why many units maintain capabilities that scuba enthusiasts maintain completely little need for, including a date window and a GMT feature. (Critically, how lengthy attain other folks think divers dwell beneath?) Nonetheless Ulysse Nardin—which has a rich historical past of nautical timepieces—stripped away all of those functions to assemble the sphere’s lightest mechanical dive look for. Weighing in at factual 52 grams (or moderately of lighter than a tennis ball), the Ulysse Nardin Diver Air is a highly skeletonized look for fabricated from titanium and carbon with a motion that, as its title implies, is 80% air. With the exception of being ultra light-weight, the Diver Air is a used dive look for—it capabilities a unidirectional bezel with Huge-LumiNova and is certified to 200 meters.
VITALS
Case: Titanium and Carbon Fiber
Diameter: 44 mm
Energy Reserve: 90 hours
Tag: $38,000
H. Moser & Cie
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Heart Seconds Belief Purple Enamel
H. Moser & Cie debuted a brave contemporary collection called Pop with vivid stone dials this 12 months, nevertheless those weren’t the single Moser dials to pop with color. The Endeavour Heart Seconds Belief Purple Enamel capabilities one amongst Moser’s magnificent fumé dials with an attention-grabbing three-hand look for. And in dispute to no longer grasp away from the minimalism, there’s no longer a label to be realized. No need—look for aficionados will already know who made it.
VITALS
Case: Stainless metal
Width: 40 mm
Energy Reserve: 3 days
Tag: $29,700
Bremont
Bremont Terra Nova Leaping Hour
Bremont, the 23-12 months-aged British look for label founded by brothers Gash and Giles English, has passed by a lovely transformation since Invoice Ackman, the billionaire founder and CEO of Pershing Square Capital Management, made a $59 million investment in the label in 2023. This 12 months, Ackman increased his stake to 63% and modified into its non-govt chairman. He also made his first study Watches And Wonders to toughen its contemporary releases.
A 12 months after introducing the Terra Nova mannequin to its collection, Bremont continues to push the boundaries of its rugged militia-inspired watches with the unlock of two jumping-hour timepieces—a recent variation with a dusky dial and a sweeping seconds hand and a tiny-model bronze mannequin that’s nearer to Cartier’s Tank á Guichets, which has three apertures: four hours, minutes and a seconds hand in the middle that resembles a compass.
VITALS
Case: Bronze
Diameter: 38 mm
Energy Reserve: 56 hours
Tag: $5,650 (Restricted to 100)
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux
Every 12 months at Watches And Wonders, Van Cleef & Arpels unveils one amongst its Poetic Complications, watches that mix magnificent watchmaking, métiers d’art work and exact storytelling. In 2010, the maison presented Pont des Amoureux, an automaton look for that capabilities two enthusiasts meeting on a bridge in Paris—where every day they kiss at midday and heart of the evening. This 12 months, in Bal des Amoureux, the couple dash on a 2nd date, in the occasion you are going to, dancing at an out of doors café. They quiet kiss at midday and heart of the evening, nevertheless now the pair shield fingers the final time while he hides a bouquet of flowers in the abet of his abet. These two in point of fact seem worship they’re going to originate it.
VITALS
Case: 18-karat white gold
Diameter: 38 mm
Energy Reserve: 36 hours
Tag: $148,000
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel
Perpetual calendar watches can also be one amongst the grandest considerations, nevertheless they are in overall ruined with busy dials which have to no longer easy to be taught. No longer so with the tiny model Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel, a minimalist marvel that displays the 12 months, month, day and date in two sub dials at 4 and eight o’clock. It also tells time.
VITALS
Case: Platinum
Diameter: 40.6 mm
Energy Reserve: 60 hours
Tag: $107,000 (Restricted to 50)
Jaeger LeCoultre
Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Miniature Seconds
Created for polo gamers in 1931, Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso, which capabilities a case that swivels 180 degrees to guard the crystal, has lengthy been a feat of Art Deco engineering. And while there maintain been endless diversifications on the Reverso over time—the case can now feature a 2nd dial when it rotates—this 12 months featured a serious: a Milanese bracelet. The supple rose gold bracelet is integrated with the case, including to its sleekness, and the dial is equally minimal, with a tiny seconds dial.
VITALS
Case: Rose gold
Diameter: 28.4 mm
Energy Reserve: 72 hours
Tag: $41,300
Hermès/Joel Von Allmen
Hermès Lower Le Temps Suspendu
In 2011, Hermès presented a whimsical complication called Le Temps Suspendu that appears to be like to dash counter to a look for’s cause—it suspends time. With the push of a button, the fingers switch staunch into a V shape on both aspect of 12 o’clock, which gives the appears to be like to be that time is paused. It’s no longer, for certain—the motion is quiet working—nevertheless it completely’s in point of fact factual a metaphor for specializing in what in point of fact issues in existence. (They’re French, finally.) With a 2nd push, the swish time is restored. Now on hand in Hermès Lower collection, presented closing 12 months, the hunt for has but every other mischievous feature—the tiny seconds hand (at 4 o’clock) runs backwards.
VITALS
Case: Rose gold
Diameter: 39 mm
Energy Reserve: forty five hours
Tag: $51,850
Chopard
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Famend for its excessive-jewellery timepieces, Chopard presented the Alpine Eagle sport look for in 2019 to nice acclaim and has been producing diversifications ever since. This 12 months, the maison released two Alpine Eagle watches, a platinum mannequin and the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF. Fabricated from ceramicized titanium (the SL in its title is for Huge Gentle), this Alpine has an industrial
VITALS
Case: Titanium
Diameter: 41 mm
Energy Reserve: 60 hours
Tag: $25,000
TAG Heuer
Mark Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
In 1986, Mark Heuer presented the Formula 1, a vivid, entry-degree quartz look for that developed a cult following for a label with a rich auto racing heritage. To stamp its return as F1’s legitimate timekeeper, Mark Heuer rolled out a brand contemporary solar-powered model of the Formula 1—building on its fashioned collaboration with Kith closing 12 months—for a brand contemporary technology of Substantial Prix followers. Form-incandescent, the Formula 1 Solargraph quiet feels firmly rooted in the ’80s, nevertheless the up to date variations have to no longer factual candy-colored for funsies—the colorways correspond to person Substantial Prix races, where they’ll be presented in tiny editions.
VITALS
Case: Sandblasted metal or TH-Polylight
Diameter: 38 mm
Tag: $1,900
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross BR-O3 Astro
A range of watches maintain substantial considerations, from a moonphase indicator to the attach of the planets. The Bell & Ross BR-O3 Astro isn’t a form of—it’s factual enjoyable. Building on Bell & Ross’ aviation heritage, the Astro is housed in the label’s signature square case with an aventurine dial that resembles the evening sky. It also flies in the face of the Copernican thought. Here, the Earth is as soon as extra the middle of the universe with Mars as the hour hand, the moon as the minute hand and a satellite as the seconds hand. Whereas you scrutinize at the negate above, it’s 10:10 and about 40 seconds.
VITALS
Case: Ceramic
Diameter: 41 mm
Energy Reserve: 54 hours
Tag: $4,800 (Restricted to 999)
Montblanc
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen
For a label that takes its title from the best mountain in the Alps, Montblanc has constantly created watches great of summiting the sphere’s peaks. Then in 2022, the label went in a definite direction of exploration—deep beneath the ocean with its Iced Sea collection. This 12 months, Montblanc took its O Oxygen technology from the 1858 Geosphere line—which will get rid of all oxygen from the case—and mixed it with the Ice Sea diver. It’s a logical progression for the collection as oxygen is scarce the upper and decrease you dash. And the striated light blue dial—inspired by Mer de Glace, the finest glacier on the particular Mont Blanc—appears to be like to be correctly frigid.
VITALS
Case: Stainless metal
Diameter: 38 mm
Energy Reserve: 38 hours
Tag: $3,660
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Absorb
Arguably the value buy of Watches And Wonders, the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Absorb delivers a gigantic complication for factual beneath $10,000—or about three to 10 times no longer up to most perpetual calendars. With a lovely salmon dial that’s easy to be taught, the hunt for displays the month, day, date and whether or no longer it’s a jump 12 months. There’s even a moonphase window at 6 o’clock that heightens the class.
VITALS
Case: Stainless metal
Diameter: 40 mm
Energy Reserve: 72 hours
Tag: $9,995
Zenith
Zenith G.F.J.
To honor its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, in its A hundred and sixtieth anniversary 12 months, Zenith had greater than a pair of contemporary watches up its sleeve—it presented the foundation of a brand contemporary luxury collection with a revived motion, Caliber 135. For now, the attention-grabbing G.F.J.—with a Lapis Lazuli dial and white gold hour markers and fingers—will likely be tiny to 160 objects, nevertheless Zenith didn’t rebuild the motion factual to position it in a tiny model. Query of to scrutinize it again in a brand contemporary collection.
VITALS
Case: Platinum
Diameter: 39.15 mm
Energy Reserve: 70 hours
Tag: $49,900 (Restricted to 160)
Oris
Oris Huge Crown Pointer Date
Is there a look for label that’s having extra enjoyable than Oris? Having released a Kermit the Frog ProPilot look for in 2023 and a Miss Piggy companion model closing 12 months, Oris breathed contemporary existence into its Huge Crown Pointer Date with brightly colored dials and a sleeker contemporary
VITALS
Case: Stainless metal
Diameter: 40 mm
Energy Reserve: 41 hours
Tag: $2,300
Hublot
Hublot Huge Bang 20th Anniversary Crimson Magic
In 2005, Hublot’s Huge Bang established the
It debuted a one-of-a-kind “Supplies & High Complications” five-half arena of Huge Bang watches—including a tourbillon and a cathedral minute repeater—that costs $1.1 million. There is also a five-half “Grasp of Sapphire” arena—in sparkling, Easter Egg colours—that’s extra modestly priced at $605,000.
And Hublot released tiny editions of 5 classic Huge Bangs—a finest hits of gives, including its signature King Gold and Magic Gold—with
VITALS
Case: Ceramic
Diameter: 43 mm
Energy Reserve: 72 hours
Tag: $31,800 (Restricted to 100)
Piaget
Piaget Polo seventy nine
Final 12 months, for its a hundred and fiftieth anniversary, Piaget reintroduced the Polo seventy nine in yellow gold to nice acclaim. An icon of Nineteen Eighties timepieces—it used to be presented in 1979, therefore the title—the Polo’s quartz motion used to be updated to a mechanical model nevertheless otherwise stayed unswerving to its customary
VITALS
Case: White gold
Diameter: 38 mm
Energy Reserve: 65 hours
Tag: Tag upon attach a matter to
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria
A 12 months ago, Vacheron Constantin dazzled Watches And Wonders with the debut of the sphere’s most refined look for—The Berkley Substantial Complication. Commissioned by insurance billionaire William Berkley, the hunt for—which used to be the size of a tiny clock—took 11 years to full and featured 63 considerations, including the sphere’s first Chinese perpetual calendar.
This 12 months, Vacheron opinion moderately of smaller nevertheless went big again—unveiling the sphere’s most refined wristwatch. Les Cabinotiers Solaria Extremely Substantial Complication-La Première took eight years to
The twin-sided timepiece has but every other horological marvel on what ought to be the caseback—a celestial plan that tracks the constellations in staunch time. In every sense, it’s out of this world.
VITALS
Case: White gold
Diameter: forty five mm
Energy Reserve: 72 hours
Tag: Tag upon attach a matter to
MORE FROM FORBES
ForbesTAG Heuer Marks Its Return To Formula 1 At 2025 Watches And WondersBy Anthony DeMarcoForbesPatek Philippe Unveils Calatrava Pilot Poke Time AnalysisBy Roberta NaasForbesH. Moser & Cie. Launches A Sparkling, Delighted Pop AssortmentBy Matthew CatellierForbesIWC Displays New Watches To Be aware Its Sponsorship Of ‘F1’ The FilmBy Anthony DeMarco
